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Seventhth Visit: March 2, 2017
First Visit: January 12, 2017
Chef Jon Young and his lovely wife, Melissa, have put together a delightful new restaurant to accompany their Fresh Mobile Bistro, which is usually parked outside the restaurant.
Jon is a wizard in the kitchen. He has a passion for good, fresh, excellently prepared food, and that's precisely what you will get here.
There are two menus: lunch and brunch (weekends only, but the lunch menu is available on weekends). My first visit, accompanied by the Dazzling Deanell, was on a Thursday, and the experience was so delightful that we returned on the next Sunday to sample the brunch. What a treat.
Soups, pastas, sandwiches, and salads abound.
French Onion Soup
French onion soup is outstanding. Lots of onions add their sweetness to the rich, dark broth. Just the right amount of salt makes all the other tastes pop.
This is the best French Onion Soup that I have had in the Duke City.
Chicken Pot Pie Soup
This is an excellent chicken pot pie without the pastry crust. Great for low-carb fans, like me. The body of the soup is light and creamy, and the soup is loaded with chicken and mushrooms and topped with fresh herbs. Low salt, as usual.
This soup is not on the menu, and Jon offers it as a special. Luckily for me, it was available every time I was there. You should be so lucky, too.
The Seafood Linguini is the very best version of this classic I have ever had. Sun-dried tomatos, spinach, artichoke hearts, and assorted seafood atop a bed of house-made linguini. The clear marinara is perfect, and just enough to lightly coat the pasta.
This is a light dish that satisfies the palate. Exceptional.
All too often, Carbonara is served swimming in sauce drowning the pasta. Not here.
The fresh pasta is lightly coated with a white sauce with lots of pancetta. The pancetta is cooked in water first to remove excess salt and then lightly crisped. Perfect blend of flavors fills the mouth. This is the way that Carbonara should be done.
Chicken breast served with Romano cheese, sun-dried tomatos, and a garlic cream sauce.
This dish scores tens for appearance, taste, and texture. The lovely cream sauce coats the pasta and does not puddle in the bottom of the bowl. The sun-dried tomatos taste great, a fine addition to the sauce.
Wild mushrooms, ricotta cheese, and herbs in a fresh marinara.
The pasta is house-made. The mushroom stuffing is earthy and delicious. The light marinara has that perfect balance between acidity and sweetness, and is low on salt—just enough to make the flavors pop. This is very fresh tasting stuff. Easily a favorite of The Dazzler.
California Croissant with Butternut Squash Stew
The California Croissant (smoked turkey, fresh tomato, avocado, radish microgreens with a roasted red pepper pesto) drew raves from the Dazzling Deanell. You must try this.
The Butternut Squash Stew is thick and rich. It is quite spicy with a bit of green chile, just the way I like it.
For dessert, Jon prepared a chocolate mousse with fresh berries on the top for us. The dark, rich chocolate is hauntingly good, and barely sweet. The bitterness of the chocolate shines through. A perfect dish that you must try.
Once again, the Dazzler was dazzled by this dish. She still, wistfully, talks about it.
Bourbon Pecan Bread Pudding
By now you should know that I am a bread pudding freak.
This is an example of a perfectly done bread pudding—not too dry, not too soggy, but just right Goldilocks would have loved it.
The bread is from baguettes, and as the right amount of moisture. The pecans add a Southern flair. The slightly sweet bourbon sauce Complements everything, is very tasty, and holds the entire ish together. This will be in my Bread Pudding Hall of Fame soon. Delightful.
And then there was brunch three days later.
Two poached eggs and ham atop toasted sourdough bread with an excellent Hollandaise.
You can get Eggs Benedict in most places here that serve brunch. There are many variations as there are restaurants— eggplant, bacon, Canadian bacon, crabcakes, green chile biscuits, and more — and they are all good. Jon's version is my current favorite for one reason: the hollandaise is the best I have had in New Mexico. Lemony with a velvety mouth feel. Perfection!
Eggs Benedict Carne Adovada
Two poached eggs and Carne Adovada atop toasted sourdough bread with an excellent Hollandaise.
Same as above with the ham replaced with Carne Adovada. The Carne is very good, spicy, but not too hot. Your grandmother would love this.
Chicken and Mushroom Crepes — Frenchilada
Gluten-free crepes filled with roasted chicken breast and mushrooms in a light garlic sauce. The GF crepes are slightly thicker that classic French crepes, but that should not put you off. This dish scores aces in appearance, taste, and texture.
Peaches and Cream French Toast
The Dazzler and I shared this Sourdough French toast with peaches and sweetened mascarpone and a brandied syrup.
Tarragon-Infused Fresh Lemonade
During our first visit, Jon suggested that on our return, we should try his lemonade. Glad we did. Fresh lemonade is barely sweetened, and the tarragon gives the drink a unique pop. Caution—this may be habit forming.
You get the idea. I really love this place. You will, too.
This is where it all started. I will visit this Restaurant-in-a-Coach soon and report back here. I will probably hire it for my 82nd birthday.
Los Ranchos de Albuquerque,
NM 87107North Valley/Los Ranchos
Phone number(505) 985-8449
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