Unquestionably the Best Chinese Meal I Have Had in New Mexico. Maybe Even the Whole USA. 

First Visit: August 8, 2010
Sixth Visit: May 16, 2012 

I had yet to find a Chinese restaurant in the Albuquerque area that I could rate better than poor-good.

Until now. Budai is sensational.

My good friend Barbara Trembath is an unabashed Budai fan. She knows Asian food and also writes for Urbanspoon (as do I). She got a small group of friends and family together for a special meal that Chef Hsia Fang would prepare for us that included dishes that are neither on the regular menu nor on the not-so-secret secret menu. In addition to her family (David, Rhys, and Ilona), she invited a few of her favorite foodies to join her at this special feast. Andrea Lin (food critic for the ABQ Journal and local food blogger) and I were there, but Gil Garduño (Albuquerque’s premiere food blogger) was in Phoenix at the time. His loss. Next time, Gil. 

Barbara worked with Hsia and Elsa to put together an unusual feast that would be different and really be demonstrative of Hsia’s skills. All the dishes were amazing. 

The Feast

Elsa served each dish and carefully explained what they were all about.  We had

Eight Flavor Duck (Eight Treasure Duck)

Eight Flavor Duck (Shanghai) 

This dish is most often called Eight Treasure Duck. This is a boned duck large enough to feed 4 – 6 hungry diners. It is rubbed inside and out with Chinese five spice mixture and salt. It is stuffed with a savory mixture of glutinous rice fortified with such (but usuakky not all) ingredients as cooked rice,  dried Chinese or shiitake mushrooms, walnuts, fresh lotus nuts (or gingko nuts), Chinese sausage,  minced Yunnan ham,  green peas,  diced carrots, spring onions,   coriander leaves, p oyster sauce,  sesame oil, and Salt and pepper to taste.  

Eight Flavor Duck Rice-Based Stuffing

Roast the stuffed bird to a crispy brown, and get Elsa to slice it into portions lest we destroy the beauty of the dish. The sweetness of the Chinese sausage is noteworthy. One of my favorite home0cooked meal is Chinese sausage and rice, a dish taught to me by my first secretary at the University of Chicago (she would regularly bring me offerings of the sausage). Great stuff, and its sweetness penetrates the stuffing in the bird. This is likely to become my favorite duck preparation. It is festive and looks ans tastes quite spectacular. I would like to try my Christmas goose prepared in this way.  

Water Boiled Fish

Water Boiled Fish (水煮鱼 shuǐ zhǔ yú)

This is a classic Chongqing dishes. Water Boiled Fish is a stew of sliced freshwater fish cooked in a seasoned broth covered with dried red chilies (Tien-Tsin) and Sizechuan peppercorns. The stew is ladled over a bed of blanched yellow bean sprouts before serving. The words “water-boiled” are deceiving. This is not a bland dish by any means. Everything about it is hot, hot, hot! Elsa carefully explained all this to us.  

Serving of the soup

We had not only bean sprouts in this potion, but also thin strips of  cabbage. The combination of the two different peppers added a piquancy that belied its gentle look. It turned out to be among the spiciest Chinese dish I have yet had. Both Andrea and I would have liked it hotter, but Hsia wisely held back a tad for the non0asbestos mouths at the table. Another spectacular dish, and it was nearly polished off by Andrea and me. Quite a delicious mouthful. The white fish was tender, flaky, and tasty.It never had a chance to get mushy in the expert hands of Hsia. 

I suspect that had Gil been there, he might have blocked our way to second helpings. And I am quite sure that he would have liked more piquancy.  

Kung Pao Chicken

Kung Pao Chicken (Szechuan)

Almost every Chinese or Chinese-American restaurant serves a version on Kung Pao Chicken (宫保鸡丁/宮保雞丁). Most are boring and very poorly done. I rarely order this dish because I am always expecting to be disappointed. One of Barbara’s quests is to find a superb version of this dish. Hsia’s creation greatly exceeds her expectations. Mine, too. Best I have ever had.  

Kung Pao Chicken. Not much left.

These morsels of very tender chicken are sautéed lightly in with a delicate mixture of spices. The usual peanuts are added. Tien-Tsin peppers supply the copious heat: T  

There are lots of peppers in Hsia’s dish, but the result is not too hot. Just right for most people, although Andrea and I wished for considerably more heat (we both are asbestos mouths.  

Five Flavor Rice — A sticky Rice Dessert

Five Flavor Rice

I usually avoid desserts in Chinese restaurants, finding them rather boring. Elsa brought out this huge plate of sticky rice with five-spice flavorig and lghtly caramelized. The thin layer of rice sat atop some carrot strings that had the look of orange rice vermicelli noodles. The carrot strings were soaked in a light sugar mixture. I absolutely loved this dessert. So did Gil Garduño on an earlier visit. This is a spectacular dessert that is not cloyingly sweet. I’m hooked.  

Thin Pineapple Slices

Pineapple Slices 

Each time I visit Budai, Elsa always brings out a dish of some kind of fresh fruit. This time it was fully ripe pineapple. Delicious, and it finishes off the meal with a bit of gentleness. She also brought the inevitable Fortune Cookies (originated in Japan),. I abstained, never having met a fortune cookie I liked. And the fortunes always suck. You know the jokes already, so I won’t pursue thai farther. 

The kids also love Budai. Their usual meal is chicken fried rice, which they gulped down politel. nut Rhys polished off the pineapple. Good hor him. 

We all decided that this foodie meeting needs to continue. Next time I’ll make sure to bring Jane. And Gil. Anyone else interested?

Barbara and I will try to convince Andrea to write a feature profile of Hsia. He is relatively unknown outside his avid  fan club, and is one of the best and most imaginative chefs in the Duke City.   

I repeat: this was the very best Chinese meal I have ever had. Awesome. Phenomenal.  Thanks to Barbara for planning this feast, and to Hsia and Elsa for carrying it off with aplomb and grace. What a team. 

As Ernie Banks used to say, let’s play two. 

You should read my original review of Budai that covers my first five visits. 

Budai Gourmet Chinese. 

Top Ten Rank: #7

Best Indian in ABQ? Undoubtedly… 

Latest visit: May 11, 2012
First visit: November 10, , 2008 

Best Newcomer

As we walked in, we were welcomed with a warm greeting, Namaste, a sweet smile by Sandhya Gurung, and heavenly aromas wafting from the kitchen. Namaste means “I bow and respect to the divine spirit within you,” used in India and Nepal to greet each other. The term has many meanings — my favorite is, “I honor the Spirit in you which is also in me.”

Namaste Cuisine of India and Nepal was started August 2008 by Shree Prasad Gurung, his charming wife, Sandhya, and hrother-in-law Hem. This family-run restaurant is the first Indian and Nepalese restaurant in the Duke City area. The room is quite lovely, the staff quite friendly, and the service is exemplary. But this is true of many Indian restaurants here. What sets Namaste apart from the pack is the food, and that’s why we go there.

The Master Chef

Aah, the food! The spicing is delicate and the sauces are complex — never over-the-top shouting at you, “I’m Indian, therefore cayenne-hot.” The balance is so close to being perfect that you can taste everything — amazing in this Enchanted Land of Chile.

The menu is not so huge as to be overwhelming. But you will surely find your favorites here. Chicken, lamb or goat, seafood, biryanis, vegetables, and much more. Tandoori, korma, vindaloo, tikka masala, and more.

Fish and Shrimp Dinner

Visiting sister had the Seekh Kabob (ground lamb, spiced, and cooked in the tandoori), which she declared first-rate. Jane had Saag Paneer (spinach and paneer cheese in a gentle creamy sauce), which we all declared among the very best we ever had. I ordered off-menu (as I often do) and asked Sandhya to see if the kitchen would prepare Fish Korma for me. White fish cubes prepared in a complex, cashew-laden white sauce. Simply perfect. [About a month after I had this dish, it appeared on an updated menu.] The basmati rice with peas was fine. The Nan was beautifully done.

This quickly became one of our favorite restaurants. It’s just up the hill from where we live. Perfect Friday night place for us. You, too, maybe.

The Buffet

The Buffet Table

Here is a sampling of the table:

• Daily:
  Tandoori Chicken, Meat Balls, Dal, Saag, two desserts, salad, fruits, chutney, raita, dressing, an appetizer, rice, naan are daily featured on the buffet, along with two other meat items are changed as given below on the day-by-day chart, and two vegetables are changed daily.
  

  Tandori Chicken, Meatballs from the Buffet (Courtesy Gil Garduño)

• Sunday:
  Lamb Curry, Chicken Makhani, Gajar Ka Halwa, Spinach Pakora, Chicken Tikka Masala

• Monday:
  CTM, Ch vindalu, Fish pakora. Spinach pakora

• Tuesday:
  Veg Noodle, Chicken Makhani, Fish Pakora, Sheek Kabob, Spinach Pakora

• Wednesday:
  Goat Curry, Chicken Tikka Masala, Gajar Ka Halwa, Spinach Pakora

• Thursday:
  Noodle, Sheek Kabob, Fish Pakora, Chicken Makhani Spinach Pakora

• Friday:
  Chicken Vindalu, Chicken Tikka Masala, Shrimp, Samosa

• Saturday:
  Goat Curry, Gulab Jamun Spinach Pakora

The buffet lunch is a fine way to sample many of the dishes on the regular dinner menu. Among my buffet favorites are Saag Paneer (perfect), Chicken Tikka Masala (with dark meat — my favorite way to prepare this dish), and the Meatballs, which are melt-in-your-mouth tender and as delicious as anything Indian you are likely to encounter in this city. But nothing’s perfect — the Tandoori Chicken was a tad too dry.

Onion Naan

Most buffets are but a mere shadow of the wizardry of the cooks. Not the case here, where each dish stands on its own merits. Never stale or lukewarm, each dish is carefully replenished as necessary. This is among the very best buffets of any kind that I have had anyplace, and outshines the regular menu in most other (and lesser) Indian restaurants.

Bargain, too. Accompanied by Naan and Black Tea, it came to $10.14 including the Governor’s contribution. Around the same price as a Green Chile Cheeseburger with fries, but lots better tasting and better for your arteries. And waistline. 

Return to our spicy favorites

On our latest visit, I decided to abandon my Fish Korma favorite for something very spicy. Green Chile Chicken Curry popped off the menu at me. But I really wanted Lamb Saag, another of my favorites. Jane ordered her favorite, Saag Paneer, I ordered Lamb Saag, and we both decided to share a half-order of the chicken. Onion Naan completed our choices. 

Green Chile Chicken Curry

Green Chile Chicken Curry 

This dish is not some lame New Mexican imitation made by adding green chile to chicken stew, but a phenomenal scratch Indian curry to which fine New Mexican green chile has been added. The spice blend is stunning. This is a highly complex dish, and at the end of the year, will place prominently on my Best Dishes of 2012 List on mu blog.
Thanks, Shree. You did it again. Anazing. 

Lamb Saag

Lamb Saag 

I asked for this dish to be prepared very spicy (hot). It was But like every other dish at Namaste, the heat never overshadows the other spices. Very tender and tasty cubes of lamb with an incredibly tasty and creamy saag, this dish has become my benchmark with which I shall judge any other Lamb Saag that I come across. Perfection. Phenomenal. 

Green Chile Chicken Curry, Basmati Rice, ans Lamb Saag. Onion Naan and Saag Paneer are toward the back.

Jane’s Saag Paneer was, as usual, perfect. This has become her favorite Indian dish, and she uses the Namaste version as a benchmark. 

This was yet another perfect meal at Namaste. But why not — this is the best Indian restaurant in New Mexico. 

The real surprise of the evening was the chicken. Sandhya told me that it has become teir most popular dish. But of course. My only regret this evening is not ordering a full portion of that stupendous chicken. I’ll know better next tine. 

Sandyha and Shree Prasad Gurung

What Others Say

My friend Gil Garduño on his blog rates Namaste at 24, and especially likes Naan, Kasmiri Naan, Lamb Momo, Mix Grill Tandoori.

Lamb and Chicken Dinner

Sally and Andy Wasowski, hypercritical gastronomes, and our dear friends and dining companions from Taos, declared, raving, that Namaste serves the very best Indian food in the state. And who am I to disagree. I took them to Budai for lunch the next day, and it, too, blew them away, cementing in their minds my reputation as a best-of-breed picker.

Go there. Eat. Enjoy.

Namaste.

Namaste

Top Ten Rank: #8

(505) 896-3126
1520 Deborah Rd. SE   
Rio Rancho, NM 87124

www.namastenm.com 
www.facebook.com/pages/Namaste…   

View menu on Namaste’s website 

Not all Chinese restaurants are created equal. 
This one stands above the crowd.  

Latest visit: May 12, 2012 
First visit: November 12, 2010

Urbanspoon lists 103 restaurants that serve Chinese food. Most are formulaic and predictable (read boring). China Best, while not the place to go for gourmet Chinese dishes, is certainly among the very best of the Chinese-American variety. It surprises me that the Urbanspoon diners have rated it thirty-seventh on the Urbanspoon list. 

Many of my readers know that I have had a thing for Singapore Noodles for years, and have sent me restaurant suggestions, for which I am grateful. You can stop now, for I have just found the best in the Duke City area. This wonderful dish at the China Best restaurant on Golf Course Road has won the laurels. But first things first. 

Egg Roll

Egg Roll 

You can get egg rolls nearly anyplace in this (or any) town. They are usually ho-hum. Not here. These are among the best I have had in the Duke City. Somewhat smallish and loaded with delicate tasting filling, they were expertly fried. There was no discernible trace of cooking oil. Masterfully done, they rise well above the cliché level. 

 You might also want to try another cliché appetizer: pork dumplings.  

Pork Dumplings

Pork Dumplings 

Every place of this kind makes pork dumplings. Few make them this good. No cliché here. 

The dumplings (four steamed and four lightly fried) were excellent. Jane liked them better that those at Budai; tossup for me. Delicate ground pork filling, well spiced, and served with a spicy dipping sauce, these morsels were astonishingly good. I liked the lightly fried versions better that the steamed ones. Your mileage may vary.  

Dragon & Phoenix

Dragon and Phoenix 

Dragon & Phoenix is a dish of shrimp and lightly breaded chicken white meat prepared with onions, carrot, broccoli, bell peppers, and litchi fruit covered with a sweet/spicy sauce. I asked for it to be made spicy hot. This dish is usually made here with flakes of dried red peppers adding contrast to the sweetness of the sauce. The chef added several more whole Tien-Tsin peppers during cooking, and the result was a really pleasing combination of sweet and piquant, as Gastrónomo de Clase Mundial Gilberto Garduño suggested. Next time, I’ll ask for the heat to be pumped up a bit more – perhaps four-six pods. The chicken and shrimp were beautifully done — tasty, moist and tender. This is an excellent dish.  

Singapore Chow Mai Fun

Singapore Chow Mei Fun is (Singapore Noodles) 

The Singapore Chow Mei Fun is among the very best I have ever had. Even better than the Budai version. Jane agrees. The vegetables are fresh and crisp, the pork bits and tiny shrimp are very tasty and not overdone, and the spicing is phenomenal. The blend of curry and red tien tsin Chinese peppers (60,000 Scovill units) is unbeatable. This is the first preparation of this dish that required no extra chile oil (red) to punch up the heat. An unbelievably good tasting dish.  

House Pan Fried Noodle with Shrimp, Chicken, and Beef

House Pan Fried Noodle 
Shrimp, Chicken, Beef with mixed vegetables over crispy pan fried noodle in Chef’s delicious sauce. 

This dish is both easy on the eyes and easy on the palate. The aroma emanating from the crisp and very tasty noodle basket filled with shrimp, chicken, and beef tickles my senses, as good food should. All the ingredients are properly cooked, and the large shrimp were especially tender. The vegetables were crispy. No mushy oversalted stuff here. The soy-based chef’s sauce is very tasty and does not mask the delicacy of the ingredients.

All too often, Chinese-American restaurants drown their presentations in tasteless, unimaginative, and nondescript sauces out of a can from the Sysco truck (for shame!) that are either too sweet or too salty (or both). Not so here; the sauces and spicing are delicate and delicious. China Best is aptly named — I feel that is is among the best of the Chinese-American places in the area. 

Very enjoyable meals with very friendly and useful staff. Fine Friday evening stop. It is a pleasure to find a strip-mall Chinese restaurant on the west side that is superior to the usual worthless imposters elsewhere in ABQ that masquerade as restaurants.

Tien Tsin Peppers. If you like really spicy food, ask the chef to add these peppers. Hot.

What others are saying

Gil Garduño — Gil’s Thrilling (And Filling) Blog

“The restaurant Chief Pomrenke (Chiefs are Chiefs even after they’ve retired from active service) recommended is called China Best and it’s ensconced in a nondescript shopping center off Golf Course just south of Paseo Del Norte. Though the restaurant looks brand new, it’s been serving the far northwest since 2006, specializing in Szechuan, Hunan and Cantonese cuisine.  China Best purports to prepare its food in the traditional ways prepared by chefs with more than 13 years experience cooking authentic Chinese cuisine.

“When I asked the Chief what it was about China Best that earned comparisons to the Chinese food he experienced in Hong Kong and throughout the Far East, he quickly rattled off several things.  First, he said, “China Best serves Chow Mei Fun, a staple at the street stalls in Hong Kong,” explaining that “most Chinese restaurants have their version of Singapore Chow Mei Fun made with varying amounts of curry, but it’s rare to see the everyday version.”  True foodies would rather feast at a street stall than at a four-star restaurant.”

China Best

China Best (Cedarcrest)

(505) 286-4898

Good to Excellent Tasty Greek Food;

Latest visit: May 6, 2012
Firstvisit: November 02, 2010

Nestled in a lovely neighborhood high in the foothills of the Sandia Mountains is a jewel of authentic Greek cuisine. Mykonos Café and Taverna, an Albuquerque culinary institution since 1997, offers patrons—many of whom have been regular diners since the beginning—a stunning array of hand-crafted Mediterranean dishes, in an understated, sophisticated atmosphere reflective of its world famous Greek island namesake.

Restaurateur Maria Constantine was raised in Athens, Greece, immigrating with her family to America as a young adult. Maria’s love affair with Greek cuisine began at an early age. “Cooking is very important to the Greek family,” she explains, “For us, it’s a celebration of life!” Little wonder most of the traditional selections at Mykonos trace their origins to recipes dating back many generations in Maria’s family.

My first visit to Mykonos Café & Taverna for lunch last week with some out-of-town friends.T he food was mostly fine, with some insignificant  gaffes. There are other Greek/Mediterranean places in town with similar but not better  food that may deserve your consideration, especially if you are looking for bargain-priced fare. But you won’t find better Greek food anywhere else in this town.

Bean Soup

Soup of the day was Bean, and it was very tasty. Nicely seasoned, but with perhaps a tad too much white pepper, the texture and mouth feel were very satisfying. It went slightly downhill from here.

Stuffed Grape Leaves (Dolmades)

Dolmades with Avgolemono sauce looked tantalizing on the plate, but they failed to deliver fully. The grape leaves had the right texture and taste, the sauce was rich and properly lemony, but the tasty filling (nicely spiced rice and ground lamb) was slightly mushy. The spanakopita was wrapped in tender, flakyphyllo and the feta-spinach filling was fine, but the bottom of several pieces seems to have stuck to the cooking surface and was slightly burned, adding some bitterness to an otherwise very good morsel. The Combination Plate was, well, just a combo plate — nothing special. The Greek Salad was, well, just Greek salad.

Combo Plate

The room is Greek Island handsome, with white walls and blue accents, on a terra-cotta saltillo tile floor. Great service. Nice selection of wines and beers (including Blue Moon wheat beer on tap served with a proper sized slice of fresh orange), and a delightful Retsina that didn’t have that turpentine taste common to cheap Retsinas.

So, I enjoyed the visit, I enjoyed most of the food, but I wished for better, and I suspect that they are capable of better. The recipes (a family collection) and ingredients are fine; the execution leaves a bit to be desired, especially at their prices — not quite a good value. With some fine tuning, Mykonos Café & Taverna could be a top competitor in the Duke City Greek arena. Perhaps they had a hard day; I will return soon to find out. I dearly love Greek food since I first discovered it when I lived in Chicago from 1965 to 1980 (Chicago had three Greek Towns in those days). I  really want to love this place.

March 12, 2011:

A very satisfying return visit. Perhaps the first visit, being in the middle of the afternoon, caught the kitchen staff in  siesta mode.

Jane and I  returned here for a late lunch of Gyros with Greek Salad (Jane) and French Fries (me). The Gyros sandwiches on pita were excellent with lots of nicely spiced meat — very tasty. Salad was better than average, and the FF were very good — nicely browned and crisp, not the flaccid mess that is served in lesser places. Forget catsup (which needs to be banned in New Mexico). Spoon some lightly garliced tzatziki on them for a real treat.

Galactobouriko

I am a huge fan of Galaktoboureko. Galaktoboureko (γαλακτομπούρεκο) is a Greek dessert of custard (sometimes flavored with lemon or orange) in phyllo. It may be made in a pan, with phyllo layered on top and underneath, or rolled into individual servings (often approximately 10 cm long). It is often served  with a clear coating of a  sweet syrup and ground cinnamon. The version served at Mykonos is round, like a puff pastry, and filled with a unique chiffon-like lemony custard with just enough clear lemony sugar syrup to complement the custard taste. Not cloying at all, but quite delicate. One of the best I have had anyplace. Kudos. Waistline notwithstanding, I will probably havr this heavenly dessert every time I return, and Jane agrees.

Souvlaki

Our server was again a gem. Helpful and attentive. We talked about the menu, and she assured me that they would cook up a fine plate of herbed grilled fish on my next visit. I bet they can, too. I haven’t had a good Greek-style whole grilled red snapper since I left Chicago’s GreekTown in 1980. Not even during my 28 years in Washington DC.

This visit was a winner. The retsina was fabulous.

Dinner with Bart and Ruth May 6, 2012

Having had two lunches here already, we decided on a dinner with some friends. And this would give me another chance at that fabulous Galactobouriko.

Hawaiian Butterfish (Escolar)

Hawaiian Butterfish (Escobar) 

Jane liked this entrée as much as any fish entrée that she has had in the Duke City.

The escolar, Lepidocybium flavobrunneum, a species of fish in the family Gempylidae, is found in deep (200–885 m) tropical and temperate waters around the world. It is also known as snake mackerel, and sometimes is marketed as “butterfish” or “white tuna.” Whatever you call it, it is a somewhat firm white fish that is (I think) much tastier that Chilean Sea Bass, which raises hackles on conservationists.  There is a sweetness and delicacy to the fish that wowed Jane.

The fish at Mykonos is lightly grilled and served with puréed sweet potatos and Greek-style calabacitas (yeah, really, and they are delicious). An excellent and unique choice.

Arni Kokinisto (Lamb Shanks)

Arni Kokinisto (Lamb Shanks) 
Tender lamb shanks braised in red wine tomato sauce and spices. Served over pasta.

I an a lamb shank freak. I often use this as a benchmark when evaluating a restaurant.  Most Greek-style lamb shanks are served with a tomatoish orzo and green beans. The version here comes atop a heaping serving od Long pieces of tube pasta (Makaronia #2, called bucatini in other countries). This is the pasta that is used in pastitsio, a lovely traditional Greek lasagna-like dish). This pasta is a welcome change from orzo.

The lamb shanks were huge, and perfectly cooked: falling off the bone and very tender and juicy. My previous favorite Arni Kokinisto (in 1976) was served at the Mykonos Grill in Bethesda, MD.   The Bethesda lamb shanks are now in second lace, having lost out to the luster of the local place. Must be something magic about the island.

Kotopita (Chicken Filo Wrap)

Kotopita (Chicken Filo Wrap)
Sinach, imported cheese, chicken and fresh herbs, Wrapped in filo and served over rice. This was Ruth’s choice, and she tells me that it is fabulous.

I vowed at my previous visit to have the Galaktoboureko again. Not only did Jane and I share a portion, but also did Bart and Ruth. I still think that this  is the best I have had, and Jane agrees, and Bart and Ruth were wowed, never having had anything quite like this. As we were devouring this dessert, I could hear celestial moans of pleasure wafting through the air. It’s just that good. And we will have it  again next time. Maybe even make a special visit just for this Galaktoboureko.

There has been a slight reorganization among the staff at Mykonos. Brad Cesarano, who has been there for twelve years, is now the  general manager. He is charming, knowledgeable, and was our server last night. Our service here has always been exemplary. here is something magic about family-run restaurants that keeps good staff around.

Urbanspoon currently lists 20 restaurants that serve Greek food in the Dike City. Of the ones I have tried, Mykonos and Yanni’s are at the head of the class. Both are beautiful; both serve beautifully plated authentic food; both offer fine and friendly service. Not Chicago, but certainly the vest around. I prefer Mykonos. The Galaktoboureko and lamb shanks tips the scales.

Beautiful Sunny Mykonos. It's all blue and white. Try the fish eye soup when you visit this isle.

Mykonos Café & Taverna

(505) 291-1116 

Academy Hills
5900 Eubank Blvd NE 
Albuquerque, NM 87111

mykonoscafeandtaverna.com
on facebook.com

View menu on  website

The Indigo Crow: Unquestionably the Finest Dining in Corrales —

and among the finest in the Duke City area.

Patio Entrance

Latest visit: May 2, 2012 
First visit: September 3, 2008 

Corrales, the charming village on the west bank of the Rio Grande, home to some 8,500 charming residents, has a goodly number of charming restaurants serving great food (Perea’s Tijuana Bar, Hannah & Nate’s, Oasis, to name a few), and the charming Indigo Crow is clearly the best of the best. Corrales is a charming dining destination for the Duke City area.

Opened about twelve years ago by owners Don and Regina Raber in an old house that formerly hosted the Desert Rose, it has become a favorite gathering place for many Corraleños and their friends, and has developed a loyal following (including me). In nice weather, you should (try to) eat your meal on the patio under some gorgeous trees and listen to some local music, often performed by Oscar Butler, an Albuquerque legend (Google him) who has a continuing love affair with the Indigo Crow (you can hear his praises on YouTube:

My first visit was with Jane for her birthday anniversary, and I had the best lamb shanks that I have had in New Mexico. Since then, by chance, I have always been there with many sets of guests during chilly times, and my favorite spot is in the back room by the roaring piñon fire. My latest visit was for an early May lunch (my first lunch there), and we sat on the glorious patio. So did lots of other folks, many of whom were seniors dressed to the nines for their luncheon outing. Sweet. Part of the loyal following.

Chef Noah Martinez’ food is spectacular. Read the online menu, and I dare you not to drool. On various visits, we have tried:

Salads

Organic Baby Greens (with cherry tomatos, red onions, shaved carrots, and caramelized almonds), Grilled Romaine (grilled tomatos, melted gorgonzola, and a fantastis vodka vinaigrette), Caesar (you can add slipper lobster, shrimp, or salmon ), The Catalina (chopped romaine, tomato, egg, bacon, avocado, and gorgonzola). Each is great.

Appetizers

Moules Frites (with saffron garlic white wine sauce and wonderful shoestring potatos that taste like potatos). You will swear that you have been transported to a Belgian bistro.

Entrées

Seared Shrimp and Scallops

Seared Shrimp and Scallops in an Herbed Truffle Butter Sauce. Served with garlic sautéed baby spinach and Japanese rice, this dish will fool you into believing that you are sitting at the seaside. Drink a Malbec with this (yeah, really).

Grilled Rack of Lamb. Perfectly done with a cherry glaze (not sweet), Parmesan Risotto, and sautéed garlic baby spinach. This is one of my favorite dishes anyplace.

Lobster Ravioli

Lobster Ravioli. This is velvety magic on a plate. Open faced ravioli with Parmesan, mascarpone, ricotta, and mozzarella with slipper tail and lobster claw meat.

On some earlier visits, we have had various renditions of steak and a lamb shank dish that was the only excellent lamb shank in all of Corrales.

Desserts

Lemonberry Bread Pudding

Lemonberry Bread Pudding. I am a bread pudding freak, and this instantiation is among the very best I have had. Perfect texture, neither dry nor soggy, and the taste has a hint of tartness. Never cloyingly sweet. It ranks number five on my Bread Pudding Hall of Fame List. I could walk down the road for a late evening snack, sit at the bar, and enjoy this with a glass of delicately fruity white wine.

The bread (and herbed olive oil) is delicious. Save some to mop up the sauces from your entrees. Good to the last drop. The servers are charming.

Lunch

BBQ Brisket Sandwich with Soup of the Day (Beef Vegetable)

I asked our excellent server for his recommendation: What was his favorite. He suggested the BBQ Brisket Sandwich. This turned out to be an excellent choice. The small dish of Beef Vegetable soup was as good as any I’ve had. Meaty with tender chunks of beef, and with lots of veggies and some cheese all in a darkly rich broth, this is like lovingly made home-cooked stuff. Beautiful. The sandwich was loaded with juicy thin slices of barbecued brisket topped with lightly caramelized pieces of red and white onions. The Texas-style sauce was slightly spicy, slightly sweet, and highly delicious. Served on baguette-like bread, this BBQ is better than any brisket that I have had in any of tyhe well-known stand-alone BBQ houses in the Duke City. I’m hooked.

Fish Tacos (Tilapia)

Jane had some Fish Tacos. Two tacos served with pico de gallo, sour cream, and a red chile aioli were very good. The fish was moist. Also a good choice, but not as exalted as the brisket.

I remembered the bread pudding, and decided to break my diet’s rule about having no desserts for lunch. I just had to see if my addition of this bread pudding to my Hall of Fame many years ago is still warranted. This bread pudding is every bit as fine as I remembered, and is still number five (competition is tough) on my list. It still is. Curiously, there are now twl Corrales bread puddings on this list in adjacent positions (the other is at Oasis Desert Bustro created bo Paul Norman).  And I can walk to both places. Such an embarrassment of riches for we Corraleños.

Lemonberry Bread Pudding. Number 5 on my Hall of Fame.

Lunch entrées are mostly around a sawbuck, give or take. I very good value. Somewhat cheaper than Flying Fish down the road. No wonder it’s crowded at lunch. There are lots more fantastic dishes here. This is the place that I take my most discriminating house guests. They all rave about the total dining experience. You need to make Corrales and the Indigo Crow a regular destination. Email me before you come, and I may just join you. It’s just a short walk from my house.

American Crow (Corvus brachyrhynchos)

Indigo Crow Cafe

(505) 898-7000

4515 Corrales Rd  
Corrales, NM 87048

www.indigocrowcafe.com/index.html
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 Highly popular place for New Mexican cuisine

Dining Room

First visit: October 1, 2009  

Sadie’s is a large, noisy, crowded place that serves huge portions of good-to-very-good New Mexican food. You will probably have to wait in line to get in. This award-winning restaurant is immensely popular among locals, tourists, and visiting conventioneers. 

Some History

Aunt Sadie, the founder and guiding light

Sadie’s first opened in a small shack at 2nd and Osuna around 1954. It moved to a larger place several years later. It eventually found its way to the 66 Bowling Alley on Fourth (now housing Dennis Apopdaca’s wonderfully eclectic Ezra’s Place). Growing in popularity and heeding more space, it moved to its present location just north of the bowling alley. The new place seats about 400 ravenous diners from all over the world. Watch the video near the end of this review for more history. Fascinating. 

Sadie’s was then and still is family run. The family has franchised Sadie’s East and has just opened Sadie’s at the Star in the Santa Ana Star Casino. 

Our visit 

Carne Adovada Enchilada

Jane and I  went there with my visiting son, who was here on a business convention. He was fascinated with the place and loved the food. He had a combination of standard favorites, which introduced the cuisine to him in one easy lesson. He adored the sopaipillas, and we thought them to be very good. 

Sopaipillas

My dinner was good — Carne Stuffed Sopaipilla. Huge plateful and the carne was tender, but a tad dry. It was smothered in lots of red chile that was tasty and only moderately piquant (I am a fire eater). This chile is perfect tor first-timers and conventioneers. It won’t burn their alimentary canals. Jane’s chile rellenos were good, if a little soggy. Tasted fine, and the green chile was good. 

Tortilla Burger. Safe for tourists.

None of our food was great. Good, tasty, but certainly not among the best examples of New Mexican cuisine that the Duke City has to offer. Nonetheless, you should take your picky out-of-town visitors to Sadie’s. They will have fun and a good meal. And you yourself should try it at least once. Chances are that you will return to another 4th Street New Mexican restaurant for really great food. Mary & Tito’s come to mind. So does Cecilia.’s in Nob Hill (where the red chile can be incendiary if you request it that way). 

For food quality, Sadie’s just can’t match the excellent Mom and Pop restaurants here. But it is a fun place to visit with the uninitiated. Yeah, I like Sadie’s. It deserves itsfine reputation. 

Waiting Nook. It gets very crowded here.

 Watch a  video. .

Learn about some history of Sadie’s, and get acquainted with the family and the cast of characters.

Sadie’s on Fourth

A Legendary Santa Fe New Mexican Restaurant 

There are several murals decorating the walls. Walk around and look at them.

First visit: April 21, 2012

Tomasita’s has been a Santa Fe favorite since 1974, when Georgia Maryol took over a little café in the Hickox barrio. Tomasita’s moved to its current Railyard location in 1979, and has been featured in numerous articles and television shows. Everybody from movie stars to construction workers feel welcome in this red brick building that once served as the station for the “Chile Line,” which ran from Antonito, Colorado to Santa Fe. Walk around the place (and the lovely patio) and gaze at the murals. 

Tomasita’s is located in Santa Fe’s Railyard district across from the tracks. This siting makes it a destination for tourists (busloads disembark in the parking lot) as well as many locals (lots of pickups and BMWs in the lot). If you read the Urbanspoon reviews, you might discern that Tomasita’s has lost some of its earlier glory. Some complain that the Red Chile is weak and thin. This was not my experience, despite the warnings to never eat in  restaurant across from a train station. That warning is bunk. [Never eat in a restaurant that you can see from an Interstate is not bunk.]

Jane and I arrived at the place in the middle of a Saturday afternoon shortly after scoring an antique highboy at an estate sale on Mansion Hill. We were seated immediately, and could even choose our small booth near a strong light source so I could see my food (my eyesight is growing dim). Our server was on-the-spot with suggestions. Carne Adovada is listed on the menu as a Friday special. I asked  if there was any left, and whether the kitchen would stuff a sopiapilla with it, and they agreed. This is a dish that I often use as a benchmark. 

Carne Adovada Stuffed Sopaipilla

Carne Adovada Stuffed Sopaipilla 

I always order this favorite smothered in Red. Gives me a good chance to evaluate the Red. This version is delicious: smoky, medium dark, complex, and about 8 on my 1 – 10 piquancy scale. Probably too hot for tourists, but I am a fire eater and could have had it a tad more hotter. There is a link to the recipe below that appeared in Heat Seekers Web site. This is not Heat Seekers stuff compared to the brimstone that the show’s stars are used to. 

The carne was very good. Tender, tasty, and juicy. Therewas a small amount of frijoles refritos mixed in, but not enough to mar the texture of the dish.

There is no cumin in the red, but there is a small amount of flour that was not objectionable. The recipe starts with “Make a roux,” which should be a familiar first step to those of us who cook Creole and Cajun. I have been told that the Carne Adovada contains a little cumin, but I could not detect it. This dosh is one of the better Carnes that I have tasted. And Jane loved the red.  

Chile Relleno

Chile Relleno 

Jane loves to try Chiles Rellenos. These are lightly battered and slightly crisp, but the very delicious green chile was a tad watery, and ruined some of the crispiness. The chiles are thick and very tasty, of medium piquancy, and the Jack cheese stuffing is tasty and perfectly melted. She thought them as good as any she has tasted, and I agreed. Very good. Won’t hurt tourist’s tongues.  

Sopiapillas with Honey Butter

Sopaipillas with Honey Butter 

These are some of the very best sopaipillas we have had. Tender, flaky, and without any trace of the cooking oil. They are served with a small cup of honeyed butter, which is simply delicious.A real taste treat. Eat ‘em while they are hot. The squeeze bottle on the table contains real New Mexican honey, and is not diluted with some stupid syrup. Every place should do this. 

If you’re not having dessert, order another basket of these beauties.  

Natillas

Natillas 

The desserts here are scratch made. I got hooked on Natillas several months ago, and can’t get enough. You really want this custard warm: never hot or cold. This is very sweet stuff. 

For something different and much less sweet, you need to try the cheesecake.It is quite fabulous. No kidding.  

Homemade Piñon Cheesecake

Piñon Cheesecake 

I am also a cheesecake freak. I like cheesecake thick and dense, and not too sweet. I want to taste the cheese. The cheesecake I make at home is an adaptation of that made famous at Lindy’s in New York. 

What sets one perfectly done cheesecake apart from another is the topping. Here we were served a scratch-made cajeta (caramel) with piñon nuts. The cajeta is made from piloncillo, a Mexican unrefined sugar from cane. It is not too sweet, but just right. Delicate. And the piñon adds a bit of crunch and a slightly smoky taste that blends well with the delicacy of the cajeta. This is probably the best dessert that I have had in Santa Fe. 

 So, Tomasita’s lives up to its earned fame. I find nothing second-rate about it. Wonderful food, wonderful service, and a beautiful place. I don’t care if there are lots of tourists there. There are lots of tourists eating in Cafe Pasqual’s, the most popular restaurant in Santa Fe. Tourists gotta eat someplace, and they might as well go to places that serve really good food.  

What others are saying…

Gil Garduño — New Mexico’s Sesquipedalian Sybarite

“Tomasita’s serves over 80,000 pounds of chile every year, every ounce of that having been grown in New Mexico. Both red and green chile are beloved by locals and critics alike. It’s a chile for which warnings are posted for out-of-town guests in bold red proclamation: “The chile is hot!” Please ask your waitperson for a sample or order it on the side. We are not responsible for too hot chile!

“The greatness of Tomasita’s chile is validated by the hordes of patrons lining up half an hour before the restaurant opens up to get seated. Most of them don’t mind waiting for a table. The waiting area is spacious and you’ll invariably run into other prospective guests debating the official New Mexico state question “red or green” and its manifestation in the entrees at Tomasita’s.” 

Food Network — Heat Seekers

“It’s serious Southwestern Sting as chefs Roger Mooking and Aaron Sanchez challenge their palates with smokin’ hot Santa Fe red and green chili [sic]. Then, it’s true ‘hot’ chocolate made with some of the hottest chili [sic] peppers out there. But there can only be one Chili Champion, and the boys’ showdown is a pulled-pork sandwich so hot, that even the chili-loving locals can’t take it.”

Here is a recipe for Tomasita’s Red Chile. 

Santa Fe Reporter — Best of Santa Fe (07.23.2009)

“Best New Mexican Restaurant …
Whether You Want Rellenos or Tamales

“Even though its fame grows by the minute and crowds grow by the hour, Tomasita’s remains a favorite because it hasn’t lost the quality that made us love it in the first place: authenticity. Sure, it’s a big, busy restaurant, but Tomasita’s doesn’t feel like a chain. It offers simple, humble but authentic New Mexican food, served by fleet-footed servers who can tell you exactly what’s in every dish. 

Tomasita’s Restaurant

Yes, Lumpy’s fans. Lumpy’s has come to Cottonwood.

Latest visit: April 7, 2012
First visit: December 7, 2011  

Just in case you haven’t heard the hype yet, the second Lumpy’s location has opened.  Right near Cottonwood Mall, the  new place is at 10131 Coors NW, in the Albertsons shopping center parking lot. This is the building long ago vacated by a franchise of the Owl Bar and Cafe in San Antonio. I feel that Lumpy’s will de well in this location.

Just to the west of the intersection of Coors Blvd and Seven Bar Loop, it is  just west of Hakata Asian Cuisine [now closed. Sigh.].

The New Lumpy's

Lumpy's Menu Bag

So what’s the fuss all about? Why are people rushing to eart here? Probably for several reasons. This Lumpy’s is an order-at-the-counter place with about twenty booths and tables to sit down at and eat, so the bad weather should not deter you. Plenty of room, although it can get crowded for weekend lunches. Both Lumpy’s are pleasantly gimmicky: The menu is a paper bag and you get to pick your own potato or sweet potato from a bin. Personalize your meal. Right. I recommend ordering a double-patty burger, nominally ¼lb each. I always have burgers with American cheese and green chile—competition style. That’s what I ordered on both visits. And I handed the coumter man a medium size sweet potato, and asked for it to be cut into screwy fries. And I asked for the burgers to be cooked medium rare, so as to be still juicy. On both visits I waited anxiously realizing that Murphy’s Lawis often operative in places  as this.

GCCB. Weak Green Chile

That’s not what I got, either time. First visit resulted in a dry and greasy burger with no juice at all. Second time it came out dry and overcooked but not greasy. And for both visits, the sweet potato in the bag was not used, and I goy string-cut fries, not the screwy fries that I asked for. Both burgers tasted good. Both fries orders tasted good. But the inconsistency and lack of attention to detail is disturbing. The staff needs to pay attention. I have had far superior green chile cheeseburgers at Quarter’s, less that a half mile away. And the Quarters fries are very good. GCCB and fries meal at Quarters is $4.99 on weekday lunch special. I don’t understand all the fuss about Lumpy’s.  The food and preparation are marginal with little consistency. Would I come back to Lumpy’s again? Probably. Maybe they had a bad hair day. Twice But three strikes, and they’re out.

Interior at the new Lumpy's

Lumpy’s Burgers

(505) 899-1022

Paradise Hills
10131 Coors Blvd NW 
Albuquerque, NM

lumpysburgers.com on
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Lumpy's Hours

More than Just Another  Great Coffee House (much more) in Corrales

First Visit:November 12, 2009
Latest Visit: April 13, 2012 

The Early Days

Oasis Coffee & Tea started out in November 2009 as  a new full-service coffee house  in Corrales. We had been watching the building next to the firehouse for signs of life, and yesterday were rewarded with a street sign announcing their soft opening. Grand opening would follow within a week. 

As we entered, we were met by Chris Norman, one of the owners (brother Paul and sister Melissa were others). Chris filled us in on the development of Oasis and gave us a tour. The site, not quite finished, is very beautiful with decorations, statuary, and fountains from Penelope’s Garden, a lovely decorators shop just down the road (near Nate & Hannah’s). Oasis and Penelope’s are joint family ventures.

Jane and I had delightful coffees (roasted by a local Corrales roaster), and sat to chat with Chris. He told us about the menu that will be available for the official opening. Pastries, tarts, sandwiches, and even some pizzas will be served. Paul fixed us a “Corrales Hot Dog,” which is a hot dog sliced in half with a white cheese and green chiles grilled on a panini press between two slices of delicious bread. Not like your grandma’s wieners. Wonderful, and if this is representative of their fare, they have a real winner in this place.

On a later visit, I had a double latte accompanied by a Cubano sandwich. The Cubano was just right — pork, ham, swiss cheese, pickle, and mustard on very good bread, and the whole thing grilled to a nutty brown. Almost as good as any Cubano I’ve had in Miami (haven’t been to Cuba yet). Among the best in Duke City.

Corrales needs a place like this. There will eventually be live music (soft, I hope — I suggested string quartets). Oasis is a short walk from my house, and I expect to meet many old and new friends there. See you there. Look for the Cowboy Hat.

And then …
December 22

I stopped in Oasis last Sunday with Jane at around 4:00 pm as the place was scheduled to close. It was still crowded, so we stayed and chatted with Chris and Paul for quite a while. They are happy with the response from the community. The interior has been finished, and many lovely fountains are running. Paul told me that Penelope’s Garden, which was near Nate and Hannah’s, has now been closed and the garden business is now an integral part of Oasis. [Nate and Hannah have turned the former space into a consignment shop, according to Paul.]

Some of my dear friends have been to Oasis, and enthusiastically give it thumbs up. Two thumbs up. 

And then came the first in a string of changes…
November 12, 2010 

It has been just a year since I wrote the first review of Oasis Coffee & Tea in Corrales. I have been there dozens of times during that year, and it has etched a place deeply in my heart.

This place started as an unassuming local coffee shop with fine baked goods, a small selection of sandwiches, and gallons of coffee laced with ambition. The Normans have now morphed it into a constantly maturing Albuquerque destination. They have added a gallery of art, live music, a fine wine bar, and expanded menus, which include fine food on Friday and Saturday evenings.

A visit  two nights ago to celebrate my 75th birthday was  charming and low-key. We ordered from the current tapas menu

• Brochetta con chile verde — local roasted spicy and hot green chile with sliced green tomato. Spectacular.
• Gambas al ajillo — shrimp cooked with organic garlic and spices, with an organic salad,
• Pan Chorizo — grilled bread covered with mozzarella and spicy chorizo (not greasy!), and
• Brochetta con lomo al horno — oven baked pork covered with brie and organic thyme. Most dishes were accompanied by a salad of organic greens coated with an oil-balsamic dressing, which was beautifully done.

There was a talented piano player deftly and unobtrusively filling the room with delightful sounds. As we finished our meal and were relaxing with some wine, the piano playing became louder and more strident with the strains of “Happy Birthday” as we saw Paul and more of the staff carrying a chunk of chocolate cake with a single lighted candle while singing the familiar tune that I have heard over the past three-quarters of a century. And the cake was terrific, too.

Great meal. Great company. You need to get into your car (or onto your horse, if you live in Corrales) and get right over here. Now. You might find me here. Or maybe even Michael Knutson, a regular denizen. It’s a comfortable-living-room kind of place.

And they added more fine food… 

The tapas menu was short lived. A new chef was hired, and he prepared some exquisite food for us.

Petite Filet of Beef Tenderloin. This is one of the very best tenderloins available in The Duke City. Fork tender, perfectly done medium rare, with a fabulous reduction. This wants a big red wine.

Shiitake Mushroom Bread Pudding. This is not like any bread pudding that you are likely to encounter anywhere else. Unique. No bread. More to the point, it is an entrée, and it consists of shutake mushrooms and asparagus atop some field greens. Fabulous meal. Wants a slightly fruity white.

Molten Choclate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream. Everybody makes this, right? Yeah, but not like The Oasis. This is incredibly rich and smooth, like death by chocolate. I would return for just this dessert. Anytime.

And then, more changes… 
June 29, 2011

The Oasis is constantly cganging its visage. What started as a simple coffee house has matured into a restaurant with Fine Food, excellent wines, good music, and above all, a charming place in which to meet (and make new) friends. Paul and Chris wanted their place to become Corrales’ Living Room. It has.I loved this place when it started, and it just keeps on getting better.

You can (and should) subscribe to their email newsletter. This is an excellent way to find out what’s going on there (like  Get your Geek On! Come visit on Wednesday (0800-0930pm) for Pub Quiz Night, hosted by Geeks who Drink). Find out who’s playing the music. See latest food specials.

 And then, a new beginning…
April 2012

Hizzoner the Mayor of Corrales (Phil Gasteyer) and his wife (Mariana) finishing dunner with Paul's bread pudding

During the past years, Oasis has been struggling with its identity. Changes came more often, and it seemed to me that there was no guiding plan. Took some guests there for what we hoped would be a lovely breakfast, and were surprised that it was no longer available. Offerings became a moving target. We returned omn April 8 for a quick double latte before a short road trip and were surprised to find a full-scale Sunday brunch being served. And, in talking with Paul, I found out that he made hos own version of bread pudding to be served during Friday and Saturday evenings with dinner. Being a conformed bread pudding freak, I returned with Jane thenext Friday for dinner and some of that bread pudding. The mayor came in shortly after we were seated. 

We were surprised to find that the name had been changed and the menu had changed yet again. The new menu is bistro food (steaks, pork (porterhouse cut), fish, pastas, and more. The food selections are now in keeping with the new name: Oasis: A Desert Bistro. 

Gil Gonzo, new chef and partner

We ordered from the interesting new menu, and when we were nearly finished, Paul came by our table with the new chef, Gil Gonzo. Seems that Paul had sensed that many of the patrons had not been happy with the unpredictable changes, and they entered into a joint ownership with Gil. Gil told me that the menu would remain constant for quite some time and that patrons would get a new sense of continuity. At last, a viable plan for this lovely house. And Gil is very talented. Yay! 

And we had a lovely meal.

Hot Buffalo Wings

New York-Style Buffalo Wings (Red Hot)

Flash fried and served with celery/carrots and bleu cheese dip.

There are dozens of places in the Duke City that serve wings. None is nearly as good as these. Good quality chicken with no discernible fat, they are expertly cooked and served with a really red-hot sauce. These are among the best I’ve had (even in Buffalo NY). They want a glass of beer with them. I could go here some evening and eat several orders of these beauties. With several beers (I live within walking distance and don’t need a DD). 

Steelhead Trout

Steelhead Trout 

Pan flash-fried with herbs, butter, lemon and white wine. 

If there is a trout on the menu, Jane will order it. This one is a medium pink hue, and Gil had cooked it perfectly. Neither underdone and mushy nor overdone and hard and dry, it had that out-of0the-water-and-into-the-pan taste and texture. Lovely. 

Pork Porterhouse

Porterhouse Pork 

This is a center-cut chop deboned and grilled to perfection Add grilled onions and mushrooms. 

I am very fussy about the cooking of pork. It should be still barely pink inside in order to remain juicy and tender. If even slightly overdone, it gets dry and tough. Gil did this perfectly. The fries are hand cut, with no two pieces the same size. Not even a hint of grease or oil, they were delicious. No frozen crap here. This could easily become a new favorite. 

Paul's Bread Pudding

Paul’s Bread Pudding  

If you read my reviews, you are surely aware that I am a bread pudding freak, as is my friend Gil Garduño. Paul Norman’s version immediately sprang forth to #5 on my Bread Pudding Hall of Fame. This is a dense bread pudding with  nuts and is topped with crème Chantilly laced with a bit of brandy. It sits atop a sweet-tart sauce made of lemon, sugar, and a few other secret ingredients. This sauce soaks into the bottom half of the baked pudding, giving the dish an unusual combination of textures. Jane loved it; it was not too sweet for her. 

This was a highly successful meal and it showed loving preparation and attention to detail. The New Oasis has arrived, and it is a hit. 

I started out loving Oasis even before it was officially open for business. Then things got confused. Now all is right with Oasis Desert Bistro. I have no doubt that Gil, Paul, and Chris will keep the place as good as it was on our latest visit. Oasis should become a destination restaurant. I think it’s that good. Meet me there. 

 Finally, a real Corrales Living Room had arrived wearing new clothes.

Oasis: A Desert Bistro

(505) 792-4720
4940 Corrales Road  
Corrales, NM 87048

oasisdesertbistro.com
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 An Albuquerque classic comes to Nob Hill

Latest visit: April 6, 2012
First Visit: February 17, 2012

The Masterful Cecilia Baca

There are 128 restaurants in Albuquerque that serve New Mexican food, according to Urbanspoon. Most, but not all, are good. Some are overblown hypes (you know which they are). A few are fancy and great. And a few are small family owned places that you may consider dives, and they are superb. Cecilia’s is one of the small and great ones.

Cecilia’s second place is in Nob Hill (the other is Downtown and doesn’t serve dinner) . Our Friday night crawl brought us here, partly on a recommendation from Andrea Lin, and we were knocked out. Cecilia has been crafting some of the best New Mexican food since 1999, and you would swear that she is cooking it especially for you (more about this later) . I started with my benchmarking dish: a Carne Adovada Stuffed Sopaipilla.

Carne Adovada Stuffed Sopaipilla

Carne Adovada Stuffed Sopaipilla. I have had these things all over this state, and Cecilia’s is one of the two best to be had anywhere. The pork is perfectly done. The Red is the stuff that dreams are made of: Chimayó chiles prepared with garlic, Mexican oregano, and loving care. This chile is nearly incendiary without shorting on the flavor. Texture and color are outstanding, and the piquancy is 8 – 9 on my unofficial scale. The Sopa is huge. You can watch Guy Fieri wrap his mouth around a handheld version of this thing in the video from his TV show embedded in this review. I prefer mine smothered in Red, and you should, too.  The beans and rice added to the enjoyment of this dish instead of just coming along for the ride. The beans are properly ladry, which imparts that unmistakably silky mouth feel to each forkful.

Enchilada Relleno Combination Plate

Enchilada Relleno Combination Plate. Jane settled on this dish for her dinner. Flat enchiladas and two chile rellenos graced the plate with more of the beans and rice. The rellenos are lightly battered and cooked to a slightly crispy golden brown. She had been warned about the Red, and got Red and Green. Good choice for her, because the Red is just too much for her taste buds. She loved the taste, but wisely shunned the Red. The Green was quite fine. She allowed as the rellenos were quite possibly the best she has ever had. From the sample I tasted, I agree with her.

Chicharrón (Chicharonnes

Chicharrón (Chicharonnes). I am a sucker for chicharonnes, and these are as good as any New Mexican style that I have had. They are perfectly cooked —just slightly crispy and not hard, like some that I have had. Our server brought a small cup of Red for dipping. You might want to wrap  a handful inside a tortilla and add some Red. Sublime.

There is, as I have found out, a big difference between Mexican and New Mexican chicharonnes. The best Mexican ones that I have had are not nearly as crispy, but remain quite soft. Try them at La Cocina De Doña Clara, a no-holds-barred Mexican cocina in Santa Fe.

Cecilia shares het time between het two restaurants. She arrived at the Nob Hill place as we were half way through our dinner. Shortly, she came over to our boot and we asked her to sit with us for a wile, which turned into a half hour. She is charming and loquacious, and is immensely proud of her food, and for good reason. She told us how her Red is prepared (she showed Guy Fieri, and you can get the method from the video). When I asked her about the super hot Red that Andrea Lin wrote about, smiled and said that she now only makes that version on special order for folks that she knows will appreciate it. And she knows me now, and said that I should call her when I want the real hot stuff, and she will make it for me. Game on, Cecilia.

We then chatted about desserts. I told her that I love natillas, and she said that she makes them here from scratch, along with flan and bread pudding. The mention of bread pudding got my full attention — I am a bread pudding freak, an affliction I share with my friend Gil Gardoño, New Mexico’s Sesquipedalian Sybarite . I then recalled that he told me about Cecilia’s Capirotada, a Savory bread pudding that is served during Lent and sometimes Advent. It is one of his favorites. Cecilia will start having it available this week. Count me in. Maybe I’ll meet Gil there.

I’ll surely be back for the super-Red.

OK. I’m back for more goodies. As Good Friday rolled around, I realized that the capirotada would go away until Advent, and I couldn’t wait that long. That morning, I called Cecilia and asked her to make up a special batch of her incendiary red chile and some capirotada. She agreed and told me that it would be waiting for me.

Carne Adovada Stuffed Sopaipilla

Jane did not fare to try the incendiary red, so she ordered a Carne Adovada Stuffed Sopaipilla with Cecilia’s usual red (still no slouch in the heat department) with a cup of sour cream on the side to help put out any flames that might arise. Jane learned the sour cream trick from Marlene at het 4th Street restaurant. [Marlene and Cecilia went to school together and started their careers as servers at a 4th Street restaurant  located where Garcia's Kitchen now is. Marlene still runs a food truck near Washington and Alameda.] Jane loved the sopa, calling it the best she has ever had. She only needed a little bit of the sour cream.

Blue Corn Enchiladas with Carne Adovada and Incendiary Red Chile

Blue Corn Enchiladas with Carne Adovada and  super hot red chile.

Cecilia brought me this dish and promptly sat down in front of me to watch my reaction. I took a forkful of the chile and smiled. She smiled back, maybe a smile of amazement that an anglo could get this stuff past his lips. Yes, it is hot. One of the hottest things I have ever had in my mouth. But the taste is fantastic. The chile is dark red, smoky and highly complex, and absolutely delicious. I have finally found the real thing. And the Carne Adovada is world class. Beautiful dish.  I also got a small dish of chicharones with some flour tortillas and a small dish of the red for dipping. This is heavenly stuff.

I need to warn you that this chile can be painful. Eating it is not a macho thing. Please read Andrea Lin’s comments farther down on this page. If you like super Thai hot, or indian with some ghost peppers, you will like this. Cecilia has these chiles hand chosen and picked just for her. From Chimayó, the red chile capital of the world.

Capirotada—a savory bread pudding

Capirotada

Capirotada (pronounced: kä-pē-rô-tä-thä) is a common Mexican bread pudding that is traditionally eaten during Lent. It is generally composed of toasted French bread soaked in a mulled syrup, sugar, raisins, and walnuts. The syrup is mixed with a little bit of water or milk to make it less thick; piloncillo (Mexican brown sugar), cinnamon, and nutmeg. It is best served warm, but many choose to let it chill.
As these are native ingredients, they are still identical ingredients to those used during the 1640s to make breads and cakes. The ingredients and recipes have been recorded by the Holy Office of the Inquisition and saved to this day in the archives.
The basic ingredients carry a rich symbolism to the Passion of Christ, and the dish is viewed by many Mexican and Mexican-American families as a reminder of the suffering of Christ on Good Friday. The bread is for the Body of Christ, the syrup is his blood, the raisins are the nails of the cross, and the whole cinnamon sticks are the wood of the cross. The melted cheese stands for the Holy Shroud.

Piloncillo—Mexican Brown Cane Sugar

Well, I indeed had this on Good Friday. Cecilia’s version was made from bread that she baked that morning, and she uses pine nuts instead of walnuts. This is sweetened with piloncillo, a Mexican unrefined dark sugar from cane that is usually sold in cones. This is distinctly better than using white sugar or molasses, and it has a quite delicate not-too-sweet taste. Topped with melted cheddar and other cheeses, this capirotada is a fine example of what a savory bread pudding should bd. It broke into my Bread Pudding Hall of Fame List. I, like my friend Gil Garduño, an a bread pudding freak. Watch for my article on bread puddings to appear on these pages soon.

Cecilia Baca is one of the culinary treasures of New Mexico.

What others are saying

Watch Guy Fieri interview Cecilia Baca on Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives

Andrea Lin — The Journal and Duke City Food

“Hottest Red Chile EVER.
Whoa, whoa, whoa. I have liked Cecilia’s for awhile, but her red just keeps getting hotter and hotter.

“Now it is at the level that will make sweat drops appear on the forehead of diners that request “extra super native Thai Hot” at Thai restaurants (which would be me). It is insanely, painfully hot in the best way. If you order it and find it TOO hot, don’t send it back or at least don’t say you weren’t warned.”

Gil Garduño — Gil’s Thrilling (And Filling) Blog

“When Cecilia says the secret ingredient in her cooking is love, she knows it comes from her heart, but she also doesn’t discount divine inspiration from her kitchen’s patron saint.  One meal at Cecilia’s Cafe and you’ll probably be disposed to believe her food is inspired.  If you’re a native New Mexican, you might even call it miraculous.  That’s because this is New Mexican food the way it’s been prepared by and for New Mexicans for generations.  It is unadulterated and in no way “anglicized” for touristy tastes.  This is the real thing!”

Cecilia’s Cafe (Nob Hill)