El Paragua Restaurant

Surely you’re joking. Good food in  Española? Well, yes. No joke.

First visit: April 29, 2013
Next visit: soon 
 

Paragua Panorama

Watch for the logo

Watch for the logo

It all stared with “The Stand.”

If you’re looking for a casual, excellent taste of Northern New Mexico and Mexican traditional favorites and you happen to be within a fifty mile radius of Santa Fe, watch for a colorful beach umbrella logo identifying El Paragua restaurant.  The logo and the food products are constantly recognized by locals as “best” in the area.

One of the dining rooms

One of the dining rooms

El Paragua is the outgrowth of what locals referred to as “The Stand,” which morphed into El Parasol, which is now a quick-fix taco/enchilada stand just next door to El Paragua.

The rooms are outrageously beautiful. Just inside the lobby, there is a huge tree growing up through the roof (hence the name “The Umbrella”), which is visible at the left of Paul Pacheco in the panoramic photo at the top of this review.  Read the history on the restaurant’s Website.

The Food

So the place is beautiful and warming. Is the food any good?

And how.

Chips and Salsa

Chips and Salsa

Chips and Salsa

These are lightly fried and lightly salted delicious chips. The salsa, house-made, is a red and geen jalapeño-based concoction that borders on being really hot.  This is very tasty stuff indeed, and I rank it very high on the New Mexican salsa scale.

You might get hooked.

Menudo Rpjp

Menudo Rpjp, among the very best I have had.

Menudo Rojo 

Menudo is a traditional Mexican soup made with beef stomach (tripe) in a clear broth or with a red chili base. Usually, lime, chopped onions, and chopped cilantro are added, as well as crushed oregano and crushed red chili peppers.
Menudo is usually eaten with tortillas or other breads, such as bolillo or sopaipillas. It is often chilled and reheated, which results in a more concentrated flavor. The popularity of menudo in Mexico is such that Mexico is a major export market for stomach tripe from US and Canadian beef producer.

Sopaipillas

Sopaipillas

The version served here is just short ob being incendiary (the  way I like it), and is served with  Sopaipillas, which  are very good. 

Preparing menudo can be somewhat tricky. If the tripe is not cleaned and cooked properly, the result can vary between tough (chewy) or slimy and overdone. This tripe is the very best that I have encountered, and the whole dish is as perfect as I could expect. Paul had this dish, too, and agreed that it was superb.

GCCB

Green Chile Cheeseburger

Green Chile Cheeseburger 

Those of you who know my tastes will remember that I will always try a Green Chile Cheeseburger (competition style, of course).  But a good menudo always trumps a good GCCB. Rising to the occasion, Jane ordered the GCCB with garnish. She hates menudo.

The GCCB was very good, juicy and nicely cooked, but not good enough to make its way to my GCCB Hall of Fame. The green lacked sufficient piquancy for me. The fries were just ok.

Chicken Chalupa

Chicken Chalupa

Chicken Chalupa 

Judy tried the chicken chalupa, which I usually shun.  It looked great, and she loved the taste. Chicken was moist and tender.

Accompanied with pretty good beans and rice.

Nice meal.

Capirotada

Capirotada

Capirotada  

My friend and fellow gastronome, Gil Garduño, told me some years ago that the capirotada here is excellent. Both he and I suffer from the  Bread Pudding Fixation Disorder (possibly genetically linked), so O was compelled to try this version.

It was great. Properly savory, and not too sweet. Wow. Second best that I have ever had.

A Recommendation

I have been driving through Española for five years while on my way to other destinations (to me, Española is not a destination)., such as Taos and Chimayó.  I wouldn’t have guessed that this place could harbor such a really good restaurant. I have been quite dissatisfied with several others here, save Angelina’s (best lamb in Northern New Mexico), which I love.

El Paragua puts Española on my dining destination map. Put it on yours, too.

The Gang

Jane and Larry and Paul and Judy

 

What others are saying

Gil Garduño — New Mexico’s Sesquipedalian Sybarite

OutsideIf small businesses are the backbone of American commerce, then the good old-fashioned lemonade stand is the spinal cord.  That sagacious metaphor (for which I unfortunately cannot take credit) is an apt description for how El Paragua transcended its humble beginnings to become one of the culinary crown jewels of Northern New Mexico.

“The menu is unlike that of other New Mexican restaurants.  It’s more than an eclectic mix of American, Mexican and New Mexican items and includes a surprising array of mariscos (Mexican seafood) and steak.  The steak selections includes Churrasco Argentino, cooked in a green herb salsa chimichurri and served for two on a hot brazier.  Steaks and fish (try the pan-fried breaded trout almondine) are grilled over a mesquite-wood fire.  For less meaty fare, the lime-basted chicken with apple sauce is a delicious option.”

 Gil’s Rating: 21

 El Paragua Restaurant

Stove (505) 753-3211 

Española
603 Santa Cruz Rd
Española, NM 87532

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Posted in Española, Mexican, New Mexican | 2 Comments

Break The Chain emerges again

Like a phoenix, Break The Chain emerges from the ashes.

Update: April 5, 2013

Break The Chain

Break The Chain – Ryan Scott

You can’t keep a good man like Ryan Scott down. His radio talk show on KIVA 1550AM ran for 27 shows. Ryan is a fine radio host and drew some of the more interesting restaurateurs and foodies from Albuquerque to his show. I was saddened to see the show discontinued, as were many of my friends.

I am delighted to report to you that Ryan has created a new show in video format that is now available for viewing. The videos appear on YouTube in a channel named Break The Chain New Mexico.

The videos are created by Nick Layman of Nick Layman Media, and are very professional. The first episode was sponsored bu Rich Ford  of Albuquerque and Edgewood.

The Episodes

3. Paco’s International Smoked Cuisine — Published May 13, 2013 May

Break the Chain host Ryan Scott meets some regulars and Paco’s mom at the restaurant. Paco’s International Smoked Cuisine is truly a hidden gem in Albuquerque’s North Valley.

Paco’s Urbanspoon Reviews


2. Break the Chain Visits Torinos’@Home. April 12, 2013

Break the Chain host Ryan Scott visits Torinos’@Home, an Italian Restaurant in Northeast Heights of Albuquerque, New Mexico. He hangs out with regulars, new customers and the family who runs the restaurant in this episode. Visit it’s website athttps://torinosfoods.com/ to find out more information.


1.  Standard Diner with Chef Saul Panigaua. April 5, 2013

Break the Chain host Ryan Scott visits Standard Diner. It updates traditional diner classics with modern flair. Ryan took time to see it’s executive chef cook up some Standard Diner specialties. Visit it’s website http://www.standarddiner.com for more information on Standard Diner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in Food People, Fun Stuff, Gossip, Information, Restaurant Posts | Leave a comment

Plaza Café Downtown

Great Historic Santa Fe Funky….

Latest visit: May 6, 2013
First visit: April 26, 2007 

Paza Panorama

Mary Joy Ford

Mary Joy Ford

Before we moved to New Mexico, we spent lots of time with a Santa Fe Realtor, Mary Joy Ford, searching for a place to live. She and her gentle husband Bob Sivinski treated us to a wonderful breakfast at the Plaza Cafe before embarking on our quest. The Plaza was then, and still is, a special joy to us.

The Plaza Café, Santa Fe’s oldest restaurant, has been serving highly acclaimed, authentic traditional dishes since 1918. Located on the historic Santa Fe Plaza, you won’t find a better view or atmosphere while you enjoy an authentic New Mexican experience. A favorite among locals and movie stars alike, everyone finds what they’re looking for at the Plaza Café.

We have eaten there dozens of times. The Plaza is like a magnet—it keeps drawing us back. We have brought many friends here. It is the place where I ate on my final trip from Maryland to New Mexico to take up residence (in Corrales. Sorry, Mary Joy.).

Posole Christmas

Posole Christmas

The food ranges from very good to sensational. Posole and Menudo are very good. Chicken Mole Enchiladas are sensational, with a rich and complex sauce that is probably better that what your Abuelita made. Try the Pumpkin Posole in the late fall–is is a real taste treat. Get the Menudo very spicy.

This is not a fancy place. Formica and chrome. Neon beer signs. Yeah, it’s ’50s funky. I love funky diners. The service is spot-on. One grandmotherly server looked at me and told me what I needed. She was right (Pumpkin Posole and hot Mexican Chocolate).

Waiting...

Waiting outside for a table

I have eaten in many fine places in Santa Fe. I keep returning to the Plaza. I feel like driving up there right now, but I no longer see well enough to drive.Anybody want to chaufer?

Thanks for the introduction, Mary Joy.

 Some History

Lincoln Avenue

Lincoln Avenue, West Side of the Santa Fe Plaza ca 1918 – 1920

“The Plaza Café, Santa Fe’s oldest restaurant, has been serving highly acclaimed, authentic traditional dishes since 1918. In 1947, Dionysi Razatos, a Greek immigrant with an American dream, took over the Plaza Café and his family has been feeding Santa Fe ever since. Danny (his Americanized name) married a local girl named Beneranda and together they ran the Plaza and raised six children. As their children grew they all worked at the Plaza and helped to create what the restaurant is today.

Dan Razatos and Pomonis in the Plaza Restaurant 1947

Dan Razatos and Pomonis in the Plaza Restaurant 1947

“The Razatos family kept the traditional cooking methods and flavor combinations of New Mexico and added some recipes from Greece, all the while keeping with the classic American diner experience. This is why you’ll find everything from blue corn green chile carne asada enchiladas with a warm pillowy sopaipilla to chicken fried steak with mashed potatoes and moussaka with a Greek salad on the side.

The Plaza Café, Lord’s Studio, and the Plaza Bar on Lincoln Avenue, ca 1955

 ”In addition to producing food that is hand crafted and made only of the freshest ingredients, Andy Razatos (the youngest of the Razatos family and current Chef) has created a menu with modern interpretations of traditional diner food such as crispy calamari, fresh halibut ceviche and quinoa fritters. Andy is also responsible for the Plaza’s award winning desserts such as Apple Cajeta Pie, Red Velvet Cake and Coconut Cream Pie.

Iced Latte

This is one of the very best Iced Lattes that you are likely to find.

 ”Located on the historic Santa Fe Plaza you won’t find a better view or atmosphere while you enjoy an authentic New Mexican experience. A favorite among locals and movie stars alike, everyone finds what they’re looking for at the Plaza Café! While you’re there don’t hesitate to ask for Andy. He’s back in the kitchen but enjoys meeting his customers and getting their feedback. “

Reopening after the fire

There was a tragic fire that destroyed most of the interior of this historic place. Now that it has reopened, I wanted to take some of my children to this place, which has been one of my favorites ever since I first walked in the door back in 2007 with Mary Joy and Bob.

There are some minor changes. It still looks much like it did, but the neon light strips ate gone from the area above the counter. There is now gleaming stainless steel service counter visible to all. The tables and booths are the same. I felt right at home here.

Service Station

Service Station

Counter

Counter

New Look

 

 

 

 

 

Chicken Mole Enchiladas

Chicken Mole Enchiladas

Chicken Mole Enchiladas 

Chicken enchiladas topped with our savory mole sauce and sour cream. Served with beans and rice.

One of my favorite Mexican dishes is chicken mole.  The mole enchilada dish at the Plaza is also among my favorites. I have had it nearly a dozen times. The mole is very rich and complex, and the chicken is tender and still juicy. This is a winner.

Pork Burrito

Pork Burrito

Pork Burrito 

A traditional flour tortilla filled with your choice of  calabacitas, chicken, pork, chopped steak, or fresh sliced prime rib and smothered with red or green chile and cheese.

Mt son Christopher Robin had this excellent burrito. Very good beans and rice on the side. The red chile is excellent, and slightly higher than medium on my piquancy scale. Can’t go  wrong with this for lunch or dinner.

Beef Enchilada

Beef Enchilada

Beef Enchilada

Authentic corn tortillas rolled (when ordering yellow and flat if ordering blue), filled with your choice of calabacitas, chicken, pork or chopped steak. Then smothered with red or green chile and cheese; served with pinto beans and Spanish rice.

Another son, David Lawrence, had these enchiladas for his lunch. He had then smothered with red and green (Christmas). He liked the red a bit more, but allowed that both were excellent. Can’t get this stuff in Atlanta, he said. This is true.

Huevos Rancheros

Huevos Rancheros

Huevos Rancheros

Two fried eggs on a yellow or blue corn tortilla. Smothered with your choice of red or green chile and topped with jack cheese. Served with beans, hash browns and a flour tortilla.

David’s wife, Shelly, had there and allowed that she has never had anything Mexican or New Mexican quite this good. Certainly not in Atlanta. 

Green Chile Cheeseburger

Green Chile Cheeseburger

Green Chile Cheeseburger 

Seems like every place in New Mexico prepares their own version of the GCCB, and Plaza is no exception. This competition-style piece of deliciousness is hand ground, hand formed, and cooked to perfection exactly as I requested. Juicy medium rare, it dripped down my cheeks. Very tasty. The green was medium piquant (maybe 5-6 out of 10), but it lacked that crucial smokiness. Good, but not perfect.

Green Chile Grilled Cheese

Green Chile Grilled Cheese

The fries are forgettable. Mealy on the inside and slightly oily on the outside. The should be double cooked. 

The Green Chile Grilled Cheese sandwich is exemplary. Perfect texture on heavy wheat bread. The slaw is very good, and certainly a better choice than the fries. This is Diner Food par excellence. 

Sopaipillas

Sopaipillas

Sopaipillas

A sopaipilla is traditionally made from leavened wheat dough (or a mixture of wheat flour and masa harina) to which some shortening or butter is added. After being allowed to rise, the dough is rolled into a sheet that is then cut into circular, square or triangular shapes. The shapes are 8-10 cm in size for the longest dimension (if intended for a dessert) or 15-20 cm (if intended to be stuffed for a main course). The shapes are then deep-fried in oil, sometimes after allowing them to rise further before frying: the frying causes the shapes to puff up, ideally forming a hollow pocket in the center.

Common throughout the American Southwest, it is generally served as a dessert with honey poured between its two layers. New Mexican cuisine typically serves them in place of bread, or filled with ingredients common to tacos and enchiladas. Carne adovada stuffed sopaipillas  are among my favorite New Mexican dish.

The sapas at the Plaza are in a virtual tie with those at Rancho de Chimayó Restauranté and at Marlene’s New Mexican Restaurant (in ABQ, sadly closed). Puffy, flaky, and just slightly sweet.

Chris reading the menu

Chris reading the menu. Go for it, dude.

Waiting to get in

Waiting to get in

The Plaza still looks the same from the outside. This will always remain as one of my all-time favorite places to visit.

 

 

Glad to have you back. Still mt first choice for real food in Santa Fe.

Plaza Café Downtown

Interior (505) 982-1664

Ranked #2 on my New Mexico Top Ten List

54 Lincoln Ave Map.742c412
Santa Fe, NM 87501
www.thefamousplazacafe.com
www.facebook.com/pages/Plaza-Cafe…
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Posted in Diner, Mexican, New Mexican, New Mexico Top Ten, Santa Fe | 1 Comment

Cafe Bella Coffee

Michael Gonzales is a true perfectionist.

Latest visit: April 22, 2013 
First visit: August 10, 2012 

Bella Panorama

Nothing prepared by Michael Gonzales
at Cafe Bella Coffee is less than perfect.

There. I’ve said it.

Ask Michael why there's a bike on the wall.

Ask Michael why there’s a bike on the wall.Wanna have a good cuppa? Urbanspoon lists 97 coffee shops in Albuquerque. However, many of the places on that list are not what I would call coffee shops, but restaurants that also sell coffee.

There are chains like Starbucks, Satellite, Krispy Kreme, and Badass, among others.  These serve coffee that is inferior to that served up at the really good places, like Grove Café & Market, Golden Crown Panaderia, Cafe Giuseppe Espresso, Michael Thomas Coffee, Napoli Coffee, and now Cafe Bella Coffee. I am not a coffee expert, but Andrea Lin is, so ask her for more recommendations.

Cafe Bella Coffee is the brainchild and dream come rue of Michael Gonzales, a classically trained chef,nonstop talker, and coffee freak. He knows coffee. And tea, too. Bella has become somewhat of a community center for artists, musicians (there is often live music on some evenings—watch the Facebook page), car collectors, and whomever loves coffee, delicious panini,, and good conversation. You know. A coffee house. I grew up in coffee houses, as did many of you.

Michael and Nikky

Michael and Nikky

Cafe Bella Coffee on the New Mexico Style  Show , with Nikki Stanzione.

KASA – Nikki is joined by Cafe Bella Coffee’s Michael Gonzales to talk about the coffee and food that they serve, as well as about their partnership with the Rio Rancho Art Association. Michael also makes a delicious Grilled Apple Panini.

The coffee

Michael writes:

“The coffee served at Cafe Bella Coffee is single source locally micro roasted specialty coffee. We offer a rotating selection of coffees from around the globe for our daily drip coffee. We rotate coffee that is ordered in a 14 day supply. This way we are able to expose our drip coffee customers to a wide range of amazing flavor notes and tones. Customers enjoy tasting and talking about the different characteristics of the drip coffee we offer. We carry at any time 2-4 different coffees and sell whole bean by the 1/2 and 1lb. We are happy to offer professional grinding if needed.

“Our espresso is our only blend that has been created to maximize our equipment capabilities delivery that wonderful crema in every shot we serve. Comprised of no less than 4 single source beans from around the world our signature espresso is a favorite of our customers.

“Our decaf is Fair Trade Organic and is decaffeinated by mountain water steam process resulting in a less dry or “musty” decaf with excellent aroma and flavor profile. If we did not tell you it was decaf you may not know.

“We do not offer a French Roast, we feel the darker french roasts tend to rob artisan beans of their natural flavors. Dark French Roast is used often in the commodity coffee market as an aid to mask impurities or age. Many people can experience coffee after breath, upset stomach, headaches and bitter after taste which is often be associated with the carbon properties in French Roast coffee.”

Check out the Coffee Menu. You will not get better coffee anywhere in the Duke City.

The eats

Watch the KASA video featuring Nikki and Michael. You will begin to understand his passion for food. He makes an apple panini right before your eyes. I could almost taste it.

Last Wednesday Michael asked me when I would be coming up for lunch. I replied that I would as soon as I could find a ride (I don’t see well enough to drive), and he offered to send someone to get me. I replied that I would get a ride from a beautiful blonde, and arranged that for the next day. Linda, one of my newest old friends, is sitting in the middle of the panorama photo at the top of this review.

Slow  Smoked Carne Panini

Slow Smoked Carne Panini

Slow Smoked Carne Panini.

We Nuevo Mexicanos are accustomed to having Carne Adovada slow cooked in red chile, but this panini was filled with pork, baby field greens, mozzarella cheese, and a juicy mayo-based sauce and expertly grilled on the press until the cheese  hit that just melted liquid state. This is by no means a dry panini, but five paper napkin sloppy. The fillings  exploded onto my taste buds. Best panini I have ever had. Anyplace.

Slow-Smoked Carne on Pita

Slow-Smoked Carne on Pita with Michael’s special take on Cuban Coffee

Michael tries to partner with local restaurants. He gets the carne from Gary West’s Smokehouse BBQ in Rio Rancho. Excellent choice: Gary construchs what I think is the very best BBQ in the area.

On another day, Michael created a similar Carne Panini, but this time on Pita put through the panini press. Fabulous. Michael  also brewed up a Cuban-like coffee drink for me: Two shots of his special espresso with some granulated cane sugar were put in the extractor basket, and the resulting beverage is among the very best I have ever had. Anyplace. Great lunch.

Turkey Panini

Turkey Panini

Turkey Panini

Linda, my beautiful blonde companion, is not a pork fan, so Michael built her a sliced turkey panini with baby field greens and the same mozzarella treatment. I have not seen such a look of sheer delight on her face before, and we have shared many meals together. Best that she has ever had, too. Two Best in show dishes so far.

Espresso Chocolate Peanut Butter Brownie

Espresso Chocolate Peanut Butter Brownie

Espresso Chocolate Peanut Butter Brownie

Michael thought that we needed something sweet to end the lunch with, so he brought us this brownie to share. One of my all-time favorite candies is the venerable Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup (yours too?). Add a hint of chopped nuts and some powdered espresso, and you have this amazing brownie. If the panini were Best in Show, the brownie was Best of Best in Show for the whole year. My mouth is watering as I write these words. OMG!

Bergamot fruit

Bergamot fruit

Oh yeah — my latte was perfect as was Linda’s Earl Grey.  The Earl Grey blend is named after the 2nd Earl Grey, British Prime Minister in the 1830s and author of the Reform Bill of 1832, who reputedly received a gift, probably a diplomatic perquisite, of tea flavored with bergamot oil. Bergamot orange is a small citrus tree that blossoms during the winter and is grown commercially in Italy. It is likely a hybrid of Citrus limetta and Citrus aurantium. The tea at Bells is very heavily infused with this delicious oil. This is the real stuff, not that Twinings crap. Good choice.

Thanks for the nudge, Michael. Linda and I will be back after a few sessions at Defined Fitness. This was a perfect lunch. If you haven’t yet gone to Cafe Bella, listen to Old Larry. Go. Now.

What others are saying

Gil Garduño — New Mexico’s Sesquipedalian Sybarite

Rating: 23 

Gil's friends Bruce "Señor Plata" Silver and Paul "Boomer" Lilly in front of Cafe Bella Coffee in Rio Rancho

Gil’s friends Bruce “Señor Plata” Silver and Paul “Boomer” Lilly in front of Cafe Bella Coffee in Rio Rancho

“Admittedly this techie is a relative neophyte to the lure of the coffee sirens.  Only in the past ten years or so have I rekindled my appreciation and love for the nuanced depth of flavors conferred by this stimulating and satisfying elixir.  Few things in life have become as pleasurable to me as the tantalizing aroma of fresh coffee beans followed by the soul-warming, palate-pleasing flavors of a rich, gourmet blend.  As an adventurous voluptuary, it also pleases me to no end that coffee actually has almost twice as many flavor-characteristics discernible by human senses than wine does (take that, oenophiles).

“The quality is telling in some of the very best coffee you’ll find in New Mexico. A simple cafe au lait (drip coffee with steamed milk) practically had me cursing the acerbic qualities of the unnamed and ubiquitous industry leader. Cafe au lait, which has been described as the French version of a latte, is a doubly-strong coffee (especially in New Orleans where chicory is added), but as Cafe Bella proved to me, strong doesn’t have to be bitter or caustic. Made from beans grown in Honduras, the cafe au lait was smooth, delicate and rich with slightly sweet notes.”

Cafe Bella Coffee

Latte(505) 306-6974 

Rio Rancho
2115 Golf Course Rd SE
Rio Rancho, NM 87124

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Posted in American, Bakery, Coffee & Food, Sandwiches | 3 Comments